Cahuita March 17

A small town at the entrance to another national park. I rose at dawn through habit and so headed in while it was cool and quiet. Different animals as well as the same: yes, monkeys, sloths, sea birds but here also squirrels, blue crabs, bizarre insects and massive spiders.

That was nearly the end of the national park then

Blue crabs

Hard to see crabs

This afternoon for the first time I swam in the surf of the Caribbean, as here there are sections of the beach where natural pools form which are safe, away from the dangerous riptides. The sea is warm so I m hoping the 'bath' will ease my aching bones from the boat journey

Unidentified squirrel

As night falls I can hear howler monkeys very close, branches are falling around me. The wifi here works only in one spot which is leaving me exposed outside, so I am heading for the relative safety of my room before either the debris gets me or the mosquitoes do!

Tortuguero to Cahuita -March 16.

A five hour journey in an open boat with luggage thrown into the front seats and people thrown into the back. Um! Interesting experience. The crocodiles sunning themselves on the sandbanks were rather too close for comfort, as were the dangerous riptides of the Caribbean sea, which at times was only yards away.
Nervous at lack of facilities I refused breakfast, good idea to avoid motion sickness but bad idea in terms of hunger and dehydration. Perpetual traveller’s dilemma. Luckily we stopped half way at a shack for toilet and biscuit break which also gave my aching bottom a break.

Heading off, that's my Xmas pressie case onboard!

The river runs perilously close to the sea...

The speed varied from very fast, swerving around blind curves, the spray drenching us and the luggage, to painstakingly slow as parts of the river are silted up. As usual the boat was overloaded so going aground was a regular feature, at which point we all followed shouted Spanish instructions on which side to lean. Given the proximity of the crocodiles no one was very keen on being at their eye level.

Looks wide but is very shallow, had to row this section!

There are tributaries everywhere, we wove in and out, twisting and turning, through national park territory with not a house insight bar our 'service station' stop until we arrived in the port of Limon. Suddenly an enormous container ship veered into view as we chugged into the harbour side.
Moin is a bustling shipping town with, according to our taxi driver, a famous football club. Luckily I d been able to fix a shared ride to Cahuita, 90 mins away, but our driver came from Moin and was determined to show us the sights of his brightly coloured Caribbean birthplace so we got a guided tour of its multi hued wooden architecture.

By the time I finally dropped my case in my new Cabinas I was exhausted but delighted with my new pad, a brick built cabin spotlessly clean set in beautiful gardens. And a great welcome: a sloth and her baby almost within touching distance of my door. Awesome.

Sloth ( and baby)

Tortuguero March 14/15

Days and nights blur into dark and light. I live like the villagers, up with the glimmer of dawn and in bed as the moon rises. The wildlife here is amazing, worth the 'jet leg' sensation of out of synch body clock!

Yesterday and today I took the canoe tour at 6am, using the local unionised guides who have mainly grown up here and love Tortuguero with a passion. Highlights, the toucan flying low over my head, the cayman peering curiously at the canoe, the many herons, ibis, parrots resting on the branches as we slipped past, the loud cries of the howler monkeys and the curious chatting white faced capuchin families swinging in the trees.

Jesus lizard ..so called as it runs over water

It took me ages to spot this one

Bit close for comfort ..though only a harmless cayman

Today's tour was free (its normally 20 dollars for three hours) as the guides are protesting against the motorised tour boats by offering promotional deals. My guide, Roberto, who was born and still lives in this house where my hut is based, told me the boom in package tours and the growth in new luxury lodge outside the park is damaging the village and the park. These firms use outsourced labour, and their boats are scaring the animals.

Toucan. .my favourites

The age old debate of cultural colonialism again. I reserve judgement, as much as I value the insights travelling alone is giving me and much as I love the independence it brings, it is also physically and mentally exhausting at times. This is the first place I have seen tour groups and I eye them enviously as they are escorted from the dock and transported with ease back to their luxury hotels.

Alas, a two week tour here would eat up my three month budget, but I can see both sides of this debate. Tortuguero is unique and deserves to be seen and appreciated. Tourism is a complex issue. Uncomplicated...the universal value placed on the volunteer work here miles deep into the jungle, so good work, Colin!

I have hiked the trails, walked the glorious coast and relaxed in the village with its calm Caribbean vibe. Tomorrow I travel 3 hours by boat to Cahita, another of Costa Rica’s national parks.

These days here in Tortuguero have been tremendous. Sleeping to the sound of the sea, waking to the cries of birds and monkeys, gliding along the river spying on the incredible diverse colourful wildlife, walking along the sands by the crashing waves.
I am so grateful I made it up here, it is indeed a truly special place.

Tortuguero at dawn.

Canoe trip along the river. Pictures tell the story.

This place is beyond words beautiful.

Dawn patrol

Red frog.  Poisonous if gets into blood stream

Just checking us out!

Turtle

Spot the iguana

Iguana hiding in the foliage

Keeping an eye open!

Heading upriver

Tortuguero day 2

A thunderous overnight storm, hailstones crashing down on these tin roofs. Impossible to sleep due to din and heat, as no power equals no fan. But it was fun, in a weird way, lying listening to the power of nature.

A trek through the rainforest in the clear post storm air was a delight. Having dutifully trotted the 500 yards from my beach hut to pay, the rangers waved me in for free. Apparently, a) I am staying here, which they much prefer over tour parties as it helps the local economy and b) when asked the usual question as to why I was here (I reckon I must be the only solo female English woman of a certain age ever seen travelling here) I explained about Colin’s conservation volunteering, and they were very excited as the work is much appreciated. Thank you Colin, that saved me 15 dollars!

For three hours there was just me and the wildlife. The monkeys were often not too happy at being disturbed, throwing sticks down to warn me away. The butterflies, insects, birds, lizards, ants...hundreds of ants...the sloth and the snakes all ignored me. Thankfully.

Solo wildlife hunting...with my camera !

Hike pics...this monkey scared me!

Butterfly....

in more detail

Watch where you're walking!

Star burst forest

I'm watching you!

Afterwards I swam in the 'pool' here, newly built in a bid to promote tourism, although it is so small I bruised my legs trying a breast stroke! Refreshing, if a bit odd swimming in a tiny patch of land sandwiched between waves, river and rainforest. Bizarre selection of views.

A walk along the beach as the sun set, watching hoards of butterflies streak through the darkening skies. At night there is nothing to do but read so I can indulge this pleasure with a clear conscience, safely curled up inside, cool under my fan, listening to the roaring waves and the cries of nocturnal animals roaming the jungle outside.

Tortuguero. Saturday

Another 5 am start for the trek out to this unique national park. I have wanted to come here ever since Colin regaled us with tales of his time volunteering far into the jungle, and whilst I will not make it into the deep recesses of his remote base, I have made it to Tortuguero

The Tortuguero National Park in the north of Costa Rica is famous for dense high rainforests, marshy bog lands, long stretches of beach, wide open canals full of crocodiles etc, and is also one of the most important breeding grounds for the Green Sea Turtle. The wildlife here is supposed to be among the most rich and diverse in the world, with unusually large populations of monkeys, birds and fish, many of which I saw just getting here today.

I opted for the shuttle option today, which basically meant I took the first half of a one day tour coming here from San Jose. I couldn't face another bus! And as I got a free city sightseeing tour around the historical architecture of the city whilst we picked up the group and also got a free breakfast (Much appreciated, I missed food out almost entirely yesterday and I was starving) plus an English speaking guide, it was a great option.

We stopped during the drive to the boat through rural countryside to admire sloths, monkeys, the most amazing parrots and birds, banana plantations with their 'mechanised' packing, and coffee plantations. I am struck by how lush and green Costa Rica is after dried out Nicaragua. The reason being obvious - The rain which fell this morning as it does most days, then clearing to leave glorious sunshine. Here rivers flow, crops grow, the economy is booming.

Bananas on their way to be processed

After a few hours we boarded the boat for the hour upriver to Tortuguero, cruising gently through the narrow waters and then the wider lake until we arrived at the dock. The village is small, a base for those of us staying rather than heading back to the bright lights of civilisation and home to those working in the park.

En route to Tortuguero

Tortuguero village dock

I want time to explore the park, to appreciate the amazing wildlife, so have booked a little cabin, right on the beach. As I type the roar of the crashing Caribbean Sea is deafening, surf pounding the sand just yards away. The destination has been well worth every minute of the journey.

Nicaragua to Costa Rica. Fri march 11th.

A day I would prefer to forget. Needs must, but ten hours on a bus, two hours crossing borders, ahhhh.
The border crossing was farcical. We all piled off the bus to leave Nicaragua, and stood around in a chaotic dusty field besieged by hawkers until summoned one by one back on board by customs officials.
The bus then drove us 100 yards, and off we all got again. this time with luggage. Queued through immigration and security, and got back onto the bus. Eventually.

Pros: its cheap.
The ticabus express I took was pricier than chicken buses (I 'chickened ' out doing the border that way) but at 30 dollars for a days travel it is good value.

Cons: stuck for hours on a bus which never stops, foul coffee courtesy of locals leaping on at traffic jams (better than no coffee though), bus ' toilets'. Ugh.

But the distance itself is not great and as I have already pushed the budget flying over Honduras and El Salvador this time over land it had to be.

Welcome to Costa Rica! Configuration of two rivers, one blue. One brown

And I duly arrived in San Jose, only two hours late, probably counts as on time here.
By which time I was finally losing the plot and almost in tears struggling with my luggage, exhaustion, dehydration, hunger, until a lovely young Canadian couple picking up a camper van literally scooped me up at the terminal and gave me a lift to a hostel.

They saved my sanity and also saved me valuable minutes to find the ATM before dark. New country means new currency...means always a mission to be solvent.

So, eventually fell into bed at 9 am after 5 am start, in cosmopolitan San Jose the flickering streetlights, of the city twinkling outside my window.