Days and nights blur into dark and light. I live like the villagers, up with the glimmer of dawn and in bed as the moon rises. The wildlife here is amazing, worth the 'jet leg' sensation of out of synch body clock!
Yesterday and today I took the canoe tour at 6am, using the local unionised guides who have mainly grown up here and love Tortuguero with a passion. Highlights, the toucan flying low over my head, the cayman peering curiously at the canoe, the many herons, ibis, parrots resting on the branches as we slipped past, the loud cries of the howler monkeys and the curious chatting white faced capuchin families swinging in the trees.
Today's tour was free (its normally 20 dollars for three hours) as the guides are protesting against the motorised tour boats by offering promotional deals. My guide, Roberto, who was born and still lives in this house where my hut is based, told me the boom in package tours and the growth in new luxury lodge outside the park is damaging the village and the park. These firms use outsourced labour, and their boats are scaring the animals.
The age old debate of cultural colonialism again. I reserve judgement, as much as I value the insights travelling alone is giving me and much as I love the independence it brings, it is also physically and mentally exhausting at times. This is the first place I have seen tour groups and I eye them enviously as they are escorted from the dock and transported with ease back to their luxury hotels.
Alas, a two week tour here would eat up my three month budget, but I can see both sides of this debate. Tortuguero is unique and deserves to be seen and appreciated. Tourism is a complex issue. Uncomplicated...the universal value placed on the volunteer work here miles deep into the jungle, so good work, Colin!
I have hiked the trails, walked the glorious coast and relaxed in the village with its calm Caribbean vibe. Tomorrow I travel 3 hours by boat to Cahita, another of Costa Rica’s national parks.
These days here in Tortuguero have been tremendous. Sleeping to the sound of the sea, waking to the cries of birds and monkeys, gliding along the river spying on the incredible diverse colourful wildlife, walking along the sands by the crashing waves.
I am so grateful I made it up here, it is indeed a truly special place.
Yesterday and today I took the canoe tour at 6am, using the local unionised guides who have mainly grown up here and love Tortuguero with a passion. Highlights, the toucan flying low over my head, the cayman peering curiously at the canoe, the many herons, ibis, parrots resting on the branches as we slipped past, the loud cries of the howler monkeys and the curious chatting white faced capuchin families swinging in the trees.
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| Jesus lizard ..so called as it runs over water |
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| It took me ages to spot this one |
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| Bit close for comfort ..though only a harmless cayman |
Today's tour was free (its normally 20 dollars for three hours) as the guides are protesting against the motorised tour boats by offering promotional deals. My guide, Roberto, who was born and still lives in this house where my hut is based, told me the boom in package tours and the growth in new luxury lodge outside the park is damaging the village and the park. These firms use outsourced labour, and their boats are scaring the animals.
 |
| Toucan. .my favourites |
The age old debate of cultural colonialism again. I reserve judgement, as much as I value the insights travelling alone is giving me and much as I love the independence it brings, it is also physically and mentally exhausting at times. This is the first place I have seen tour groups and I eye them enviously as they are escorted from the dock and transported with ease back to their luxury hotels.
Alas, a two week tour here would eat up my three month budget, but I can see both sides of this debate. Tortuguero is unique and deserves to be seen and appreciated. Tourism is a complex issue. Uncomplicated...the universal value placed on the volunteer work here miles deep into the jungle, so good work, Colin!
I have hiked the trails, walked the glorious coast and relaxed in the village with its calm Caribbean vibe. Tomorrow I travel 3 hours by boat to Cahita, another of Costa Rica’s national parks.
These days here in Tortuguero have been tremendous. Sleeping to the sound of the sea, waking to the cries of birds and monkeys, gliding along the river spying on the incredible diverse colourful wildlife, walking along the sands by the crashing waves.
I am so grateful I made it up here, it is indeed a truly special place.
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