In a bid to ensure different muscles hurt today I rented a bike. The most expensive so far and the most ancient. I turned down the no brakes ( 'just pedal backwards madam') in favour of brakes but a dodgy saddle which tipped me off whenever the dips got too deep, i.e. frequently. After these tracks the South Downs Way will be a doddle.
Still, it was fun, I was able to venture through the local villages, avoid the coati/pizote (a cross between the possum and racoon to my eyes) which dart around determined to be run over, spot the sloths and the squirrels, the flamboyant red parrots and fluorescent butterflies.
Other wildlife encounters:
1. The stupendous sight of thousands of blue black Colombian butterflies streaming down river every evening migrating to their homeland. Indigo ribbons weaving patterns in the twilight. A nightly dance performance of a million fluttering wings.
2. A less amazing sight: the bold, brash species of the American ' spring breaker'. These young adults hunt in packs, emit loud shrieks and eliminate everything in their path. Sadly this is not a rare sighting. If only. There are so many groups of tourists here, I can't believe it.
Costa Rica’s massive tourism industry has come as a shock, especially after Guatemala and Nicaragua where it barely exists. Here the infrastructure of this rich, westernised country is built around vacationing. Thousands flock here, mainly from USA and Canada, and I m still adjusting to the sheer scale of this human invasion.
The resulting price leap in goods and services means locals are struggling to afford the cost of living, (so am I!). The family who run this Cabinas (collection of huts) tell me they depend on growing their own fruit and veg as shop prices are exorbitant. Given these huts aren't cheap and they are not poor by Costa Rican standards, it's a measure of how high the cost of living is here.
But thanks to this booming tourism business the standards of hospitality are well honed, unlike the rest of Central America. The upmarket huts are cleaned daily and menus etc are multi lingual. Still no air con but a better class of fan and hot water in the showers. There is more (ish) English speakers, thanks to the high volume of USA visitors. But. ..looking back the idea that I thought Nicaragua's San Juan del Sur was touristy seems ludicrous compared to Costa Rica, which offers itself up as a giant theme park for wealthy Americans.
Pros and cons of solo travel:
Pros: I can avoid the hoards and appreciate the glorious scenery and animals. It is without doubt a spectacular country with incredible wildlife.
Cons: unlike Nicaragua and Guatemala, ironically I am finding getting around harder because there is little independent shuttle services as most travellers are on a tour and the locals don't travel long distances.
This north coast with its rainforest and Caribbean sea is a wonderful unique place which I cannot fail to love. I crave to travel deep into the jungle as Colin did and be completely immersed in nature. But I am a coward. Last night I stepped on a frog in my cabin and nearly had a heart attack. I know my limits and I’m better staying in four walls and a roof, even if they have holes!
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| No brakes, no gears, not cheap...but fun! |
Still, it was fun, I was able to venture through the local villages, avoid the coati/pizote (a cross between the possum and racoon to my eyes) which dart around determined to be run over, spot the sloths and the squirrels, the flamboyant red parrots and fluorescent butterflies.
 |
| My 'I ve been cycling all day on dirt tracks with a hat on, so my hair is flat and I look knackered' look... |
1. The stupendous sight of thousands of blue black Colombian butterflies streaming down river every evening migrating to their homeland. Indigo ribbons weaving patterns in the twilight. A nightly dance performance of a million fluttering wings.
2. A less amazing sight: the bold, brash species of the American ' spring breaker'. These young adults hunt in packs, emit loud shrieks and eliminate everything in their path. Sadly this is not a rare sighting. If only. There are so many groups of tourists here, I can't believe it.
Costa Rica’s massive tourism industry has come as a shock, especially after Guatemala and Nicaragua where it barely exists. Here the infrastructure of this rich, westernised country is built around vacationing. Thousands flock here, mainly from USA and Canada, and I m still adjusting to the sheer scale of this human invasion.
The resulting price leap in goods and services means locals are struggling to afford the cost of living, (so am I!). The family who run this Cabinas (collection of huts) tell me they depend on growing their own fruit and veg as shop prices are exorbitant. Given these huts aren't cheap and they are not poor by Costa Rican standards, it's a measure of how high the cost of living is here.
But thanks to this booming tourism business the standards of hospitality are well honed, unlike the rest of Central America. The upmarket huts are cleaned daily and menus etc are multi lingual. Still no air con but a better class of fan and hot water in the showers. There is more (ish) English speakers, thanks to the high volume of USA visitors. But. ..looking back the idea that I thought Nicaragua's San Juan del Sur was touristy seems ludicrous compared to Costa Rica, which offers itself up as a giant theme park for wealthy Americans.
 |
| Upmarket Costa Rica cabin |
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| Local gym! |
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| Natural pools safe to swim in.. |
Pros: I can avoid the hoards and appreciate the glorious scenery and animals. It is without doubt a spectacular country with incredible wildlife.
Cons: unlike Nicaragua and Guatemala, ironically I am finding getting around harder because there is little independent shuttle services as most travellers are on a tour and the locals don't travel long distances.
This north coast with its rainforest and Caribbean sea is a wonderful unique place which I cannot fail to love. I crave to travel deep into the jungle as Colin did and be completely immersed in nature. But I am a coward. Last night I stepped on a frog in my cabin and nearly had a heart attack. I know my limits and I’m better staying in four walls and a roof, even if they have holes!
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