Easter Day phone call home, wonderful. Then a memorable morning: a rare encounter with central America’s deadly snake, the fer-de-lance.
I was hiking (carefully) on Bastimentos island with a fellow trekker from the hostel when a glimpse of yellow and black shiny patterned skin caught my eye. There it was, right in front of us, slithering beside us along the path half hidden under debris.
My companion, not realising this was a venomous beast, was keen to get her camera out. Not a good idea. I made her stand very still until it eventually slid away. Scary few minutes as we made eye contact with the vicious reptile. This snake is notorious, guides warn about its danger, but I didn't ever expect to actually see one and was immensely relieved when it disappeared.
Otherwise, the trek was great, we arrived safely at Wizards Beach for a refreshing rest and picnic. I daren’t swim, the riptides lift me off my feet, so I paddled happily rather then brave the massive waves.
Back by water taxi to attend mass at the tiny cathedral here, because it seemed appropriate to celebrate Easter somehow. There's no chocolate eggs, it's all religious iconography, bright 'Xmas' lights decorating the town and houses covered in crosses.
Fascinated by the ethnic mix here I’ve done some research...a brief history makes much sense of the current eclectic community
The archipelago was originally inhabited by native Indians, Ngobe-Bugle, Teribe (Nazo), Bokota and Bri Bri whose descendants keep their traditions alive through tourism.
Christopher Columbus visited Bocas Del Toro in 1502 to repair his ships but it was the English not the Spanish who founded Bocas Del Toro in 1826 on Isla Colon.
These wealthy Scottish and English immigrants from Jamaica, San Andreas and Providenci wanted a base to avoid British taxes. With them came thousands of slaves from the Caribbean Islands and they rapidly prospered, turning the area into a banana boomtown.
Sadly, this heyday ended in the 1920s with the demise of commercial banana production. Prosperity gave way to rural poverty. Today only six of the over 100 islands are actually inhabited and the main industry is tourism. Real estate is at an all time low and unlike neighbouring Costa Rica, tourism is also falling. Hotels are up for sale at every corner, derelict bars lurk like ghosts in the shadows.
A shame, I like this crazy shambolic, chaotic place.
I was hiking (carefully) on Bastimentos island with a fellow trekker from the hostel when a glimpse of yellow and black shiny patterned skin caught my eye. There it was, right in front of us, slithering beside us along the path half hidden under debris.
My companion, not realising this was a venomous beast, was keen to get her camera out. Not a good idea. I made her stand very still until it eventually slid away. Scary few minutes as we made eye contact with the vicious reptile. This snake is notorious, guides warn about its danger, but I didn't ever expect to actually see one and was immensely relieved when it disappeared.
Otherwise, the trek was great, we arrived safely at Wizards Beach for a refreshing rest and picnic. I daren’t swim, the riptides lift me off my feet, so I paddled happily rather then brave the massive waves.
Back by water taxi to attend mass at the tiny cathedral here, because it seemed appropriate to celebrate Easter somehow. There's no chocolate eggs, it's all religious iconography, bright 'Xmas' lights decorating the town and houses covered in crosses.
Fascinated by the ethnic mix here I’ve done some research...a brief history makes much sense of the current eclectic community
The archipelago was originally inhabited by native Indians, Ngobe-Bugle, Teribe (Nazo), Bokota and Bri Bri whose descendants keep their traditions alive through tourism.
Christopher Columbus visited Bocas Del Toro in 1502 to repair his ships but it was the English not the Spanish who founded Bocas Del Toro in 1826 on Isla Colon.
These wealthy Scottish and English immigrants from Jamaica, San Andreas and Providenci wanted a base to avoid British taxes. With them came thousands of slaves from the Caribbean Islands and they rapidly prospered, turning the area into a banana boomtown.
Sadly, this heyday ended in the 1920s with the demise of commercial banana production. Prosperity gave way to rural poverty. Today only six of the over 100 islands are actually inhabited and the main industry is tourism. Real estate is at an all time low and unlike neighbouring Costa Rica, tourism is also falling. Hotels are up for sale at every corner, derelict bars lurk like ghosts in the shadows.
A shame, I like this crazy shambolic, chaotic place.
That's the bastard that almost ended me! Good work keeping your distance. Remember, at least 2 metres for these, as that is their strike distance! Back away slowly if you can and never turn your back! :)
ReplyDeleteI remembered!! I was too terrified to move. ..
DeleteI remembered!! I was too terrified to move. ..
Delete