Goodbye Granada

An overcast humid day with no water. Um. Fortunately the hostel has a small water tank. In Granada the municipality turn the mains off periodically without warning in the dry season, to conserve water. I can't imagine that ad hoc situation happening in England. Here everyone just accepts it without complaint....
Storms of flies invaded the city centre, and a dank smell pervaded the murky air. I am covered in tiny bites for the first time. No one escaped the insects today. But despite everything Granada retains its charm.

I climbed the bell tower of Iglesia la Merced this morning to gaze over the sombre city, sulking under the clouds. Yet the vista was still appealing, still attractive, the yellow and orange of the cathedral spires, lake Nicaragua stretching out into the distance, the shapes of near and far volcanoes, the roads below the tower lined with street sellers, hawkers, children playing, the horse and carts most locals use playing tag with the cars and bikes.

I know realise the fact that the population, young and old alike, sit for hours doing nothing is not actually a skill to be envied but can be borne out of necessity. I am increasingly aware of the very high level of poverty here and the need to scrape a living in whatever way comes to hand. There is an obvious alcohol and gambling problem, Granada has more slot machine arcades than Blackpool. Beggars are everywhere. For those sitting outside watching as I wander the streets, their patience is one, think, of fortitude and endurance.
Granada lacks Leon's youthful vibrancy but, despite all the above, it has a great charm. I have enjoyed my time here. The architecture is different to Leon thanks to the Moorish and Andalusian influences. The two cities are traditionally rivals but I have found them unique, each with it’s own character.

I had a grand day hiking Mombacho Volcano, with its exotic cloud forest, and I had a grand day with my Christian friends touring just a few of archipelago of 'Las Isletas', constituted by more than 300 small islets, in Lake Nicaragua. And I had a very lazy day swimming in the cool waters of Laguna del Apoya. All told, a grand time!

Leon cathedral from the bell tower

This evening I climbed the bell tower of the cathedral, a rare opportunity as it is usually off limits, and watched the sun setting over this historic city. A welcome breeze has driven the flies away and there is a jovial happy atmosphere around. A great memory to take away with me as I say goodbye to Granada.

Atop bell tower in Granada

Granada from the tower

Seriously windy

Time to move on.