Day 1 : the journey. Antigua to Lanquin
A surprisingly good experience... thanks to the glorious Guatemalan countryside and my English assertiveness. This nine hour bus ride is notorious for being one of the worst in the country, and when the ancient minibus arrived at my hostel an hour late and already full to bursting, I feared the worst.
So I took prompt action, and, having hurled my cases onto the already heaving open to the elements roofrack, I simply ignored the side door and climbed up the front passenger seat next to the driver. Rather stunned, he asked me to wedge into the crowded seats inside. I politely refused. A friendly stand off ensued, I won. He gave in with a smile, and I was able to relax, travel comfortably, and gaze out in awe at the gorgeous Guatemalan countryside.
Lucky I held my nerve as the journey was long! One ten minute stop at 11 am (we left at 8) and a ‘lunch’ stop at 3 pm (the usual , a posh restaurant no one will pay to eat in so we all lurked about for half an hour while the driver got his free meal) before we finally bumped our way down the never ending dirt track into the Lanquin valley as dusk fell.
Despite the duration, the hours passed quickly thanks to my vantage point to admire the stunning ever changing scenery. After the first few gritty hours getting round and out of ugly Guatemala City, the mountain ranges spread out before us in endless undulating waves of green, interspersed with farmland, villages and the occasional quarry. Very different to classical Antigua, serene Lake Atitilan and wild Xela in the western highlands.
Unloaded at last, tired and very, very thirsty. I have stopped for tonight in the village before making my way to Semuc Champney tomorrow. This hostel is basic but cheap, and I followed the young folks example by dumping my stuff and jumping in the river!! Which was freezing. Bliss after the exhausting journey and also as it is very hot down here. I am covered in bites, stubbed my toes coming back in the dark, but splashing in the water as night fell was exhilarating, liberating and revived body, mind and spirit.
Day 2 Semuc Champney
Despite waking to deal with one enormous spider, sundry cockroaches and a rat I actually slept like a log The spider went under my trainer (just, it was a big one), the cockroaches got ignored, and the rat I chased out twice until we reached an amicable understanding. He stayed and I gave up worrying. Turns out they were escaping the rain. I woke to torrential downpour. Rare in dry season. Everywhere is a sea of mud.
At 9 am as arranged the pick up arrived to take us from Lanquin to Utopia, my new hostel 10 kms away, nearer the famed Senuc Champbey pools. I stood in the back of the open truck in the rain hanging on for dear life as we skidded up and down sheer slopes of lethal wet rock. My arms still ache tonight.
My cabin here was originally a disappointment. The smell of insect repellent and varnish too overpowering to linger. I refused it and was offered a smaller one without a view. I refused that too until a 50 % discount was offered. Then I accepted! And, miracle, the (outside) shower has hot water...which everyone here maintains is a myth so I'm keeping quiet
Time to hike to the pools. Not a good day to walk given the extremely slippery muddy paths. Took me an hour instead of the 45 mins estimate but I made it unscathed, though incredibly dirty. The views en route made the trek well worth it, and the cool air, post storm, a welcome bonus.
The amazing Semuc Champney pools are as lush and picturesque as everyone says. The waters pour down into aqua green and blue lakes, transparent and teeming with fish which swim alongside nibbling disconcerting. I floated around happily around for a good half an hour before rushing to hop on the last shuttle to Utopia. There are rumours its not safe to walk alone, so better safe than sorry as the day was drawing in.
Tonight the power is intermittent (it is always off between 10 pm and 7 am anyway but the unusual storm has brought it down) and I am hoping nothing more scary than the moths and bugs already in here disturb my sleep. I can hear the river rushing past below me and insects screeching around in the trees. No peace in the jungle.
Day 3. Chocolate tour
The stone hut was cool at night and full of lurking nasties but my sleep was deep, lulled by the ceaseless rushing river ‘music. At daybreak still no power, but the hostel rustled up a hot breakfast of eggs and pancakes cooked by locals wearing head torches using gas stoves in the dark kitchen. I ate with relish perched on the communal balcony with a superb view of the lush hills ranging as far as the eye can see. No surprise the power is poor but the scenery is a feast for the senses.
The storm clouds linger though the rain has cleared so I decide against the pools in favour of Esteban’s much renowned chocolate tour. For three hours this charismatic man talked us through the cacao history, facts, in fact, everything! We began by picking the pods from the trees and finished by making our own concoctions.
The Mayans called this "the food of the gods” and at times it has indeed held more currency then gold. Truly fascinating! I loved it but I did over indulge. The richness of the pure cacao is a shock to the system, I felt a tad queasy. Serves me right.
A wander by the river took me past local families who use the shallows as their bath, kitchen, washing machine. Everyone seems very friendly, there are rumours of antagonism and tourist attacks but I have met with nothing but smiles, at least so far.
Tonight the fire pit is alive with campers all high as kites. I have retreated to my cabin, politely refusing the numerous offers of weed, although it's nice to be invited to the party I have made a discrete disappearance. The power is on (for once) and I have a book to finish. Ah the joy of old age!
Day 4
Time to return to Semuc Champney and explore properly. I cheated by hitching a lift on the pick up to the entrance and then embarked on the long haul up to the mirador (viewpoint) for the most amazing vista. Torrents of waterfalls descend from the heavens, gushing out of the cave mouths high above the cloud line and as they hit the valley floor dissolve into layers of calm cool aqua blue pools words can't do it justice!
The climb was intense, the descent even scarier, the usual rough hewn stone heaps masquerading as steps, the odd wooden section so steep as to be vertical.
Semuc Champney is miles away from everything but that's what makes it special. Hidden between sky high cliffs and secret valleys it is a mysterious bewitching paradise which transcends the travel and the basic hostel stays! My legs ache from the hikes but daily swimming in the translucent waters soothes the aches. I will send pics when there is enough wifi but I doubt they will do it justice.
A surprisingly good experience... thanks to the glorious Guatemalan countryside and my English assertiveness. This nine hour bus ride is notorious for being one of the worst in the country, and when the ancient minibus arrived at my hostel an hour late and already full to bursting, I feared the worst.
So I took prompt action, and, having hurled my cases onto the already heaving open to the elements roofrack, I simply ignored the side door and climbed up the front passenger seat next to the driver. Rather stunned, he asked me to wedge into the crowded seats inside. I politely refused. A friendly stand off ensued, I won. He gave in with a smile, and I was able to relax, travel comfortably, and gaze out in awe at the gorgeous Guatemalan countryside.
Lucky I held my nerve as the journey was long! One ten minute stop at 11 am (we left at 8) and a ‘lunch’ stop at 3 pm (the usual , a posh restaurant no one will pay to eat in so we all lurked about for half an hour while the driver got his free meal) before we finally bumped our way down the never ending dirt track into the Lanquin valley as dusk fell.
Despite the duration, the hours passed quickly thanks to my vantage point to admire the stunning ever changing scenery. After the first few gritty hours getting round and out of ugly Guatemala City, the mountain ranges spread out before us in endless undulating waves of green, interspersed with farmland, villages and the occasional quarry. Very different to classical Antigua, serene Lake Atitilan and wild Xela in the western highlands.
Unloaded at last, tired and very, very thirsty. I have stopped for tonight in the village before making my way to Semuc Champney tomorrow. This hostel is basic but cheap, and I followed the young folks example by dumping my stuff and jumping in the river!! Which was freezing. Bliss after the exhausting journey and also as it is very hot down here. I am covered in bites, stubbed my toes coming back in the dark, but splashing in the water as night fell was exhilarating, liberating and revived body, mind and spirit.
Day 2 Semuc Champney
Despite waking to deal with one enormous spider, sundry cockroaches and a rat I actually slept like a log The spider went under my trainer (just, it was a big one), the cockroaches got ignored, and the rat I chased out twice until we reached an amicable understanding. He stayed and I gave up worrying. Turns out they were escaping the rain. I woke to torrential downpour. Rare in dry season. Everywhere is a sea of mud.
At 9 am as arranged the pick up arrived to take us from Lanquin to Utopia, my new hostel 10 kms away, nearer the famed Senuc Champbey pools. I stood in the back of the open truck in the rain hanging on for dear life as we skidded up and down sheer slopes of lethal wet rock. My arms still ache tonight.
My cabin here was originally a disappointment. The smell of insect repellent and varnish too overpowering to linger. I refused it and was offered a smaller one without a view. I refused that too until a 50 % discount was offered. Then I accepted! And, miracle, the (outside) shower has hot water...which everyone here maintains is a myth so I'm keeping quiet
Time to hike to the pools. Not a good day to walk given the extremely slippery muddy paths. Took me an hour instead of the 45 mins estimate but I made it unscathed, though incredibly dirty. The views en route made the trek well worth it, and the cool air, post storm, a welcome bonus.
The amazing Semuc Champney pools are as lush and picturesque as everyone says. The waters pour down into aqua green and blue lakes, transparent and teeming with fish which swim alongside nibbling disconcerting. I floated around happily around for a good half an hour before rushing to hop on the last shuttle to Utopia. There are rumours its not safe to walk alone, so better safe than sorry as the day was drawing in.
Tonight the power is intermittent (it is always off between 10 pm and 7 am anyway but the unusual storm has brought it down) and I am hoping nothing more scary than the moths and bugs already in here disturb my sleep. I can hear the river rushing past below me and insects screeching around in the trees. No peace in the jungle.
Day 3. Chocolate tour
The stone hut was cool at night and full of lurking nasties but my sleep was deep, lulled by the ceaseless rushing river ‘music. At daybreak still no power, but the hostel rustled up a hot breakfast of eggs and pancakes cooked by locals wearing head torches using gas stoves in the dark kitchen. I ate with relish perched on the communal balcony with a superb view of the lush hills ranging as far as the eye can see. No surprise the power is poor but the scenery is a feast for the senses.
The storm clouds linger though the rain has cleared so I decide against the pools in favour of Esteban’s much renowned chocolate tour. For three hours this charismatic man talked us through the cacao history, facts, in fact, everything! We began by picking the pods from the trees and finished by making our own concoctions.
The Mayans called this "the food of the gods” and at times it has indeed held more currency then gold. Truly fascinating! I loved it but I did over indulge. The richness of the pure cacao is a shock to the system, I felt a tad queasy. Serves me right.
A wander by the river took me past local families who use the shallows as their bath, kitchen, washing machine. Everyone seems very friendly, there are rumours of antagonism and tourist attacks but I have met with nothing but smiles, at least so far.
Tonight the fire pit is alive with campers all high as kites. I have retreated to my cabin, politely refusing the numerous offers of weed, although it's nice to be invited to the party I have made a discrete disappearance. The power is on (for once) and I have a book to finish. Ah the joy of old age!
Day 4
Time to return to Semuc Champney and explore properly. I cheated by hitching a lift on the pick up to the entrance and then embarked on the long haul up to the mirador (viewpoint) for the most amazing vista. Torrents of waterfalls descend from the heavens, gushing out of the cave mouths high above the cloud line and as they hit the valley floor dissolve into layers of calm cool aqua blue pools words can't do it justice!
The climb was intense, the descent even scarier, the usual rough hewn stone heaps masquerading as steps, the odd wooden section so steep as to be vertical.
 | |
| Me at the mirador high above the falls |
No comments:
Post a Comment