Yaxhá

Today off to the ancient grounds of Yaxhá, Tikal’s less famous cousin, with a unique appeal not least due to its remote site. Too far off the beaten track to attract many visitors this classic Mayan city nestles deep amidst dense forests surrounded by ‘green water’ (i.e. Yaxhá in Mayan).
High (literally) upon a hill this is the third-largest temple complex in Guatemala. During its heyday in the 8th century, Yaxhá was home to a population of 20,000, where its 400-plus structures included five acropolises, two astronomical observatories and three ball courts. Apparently ball games were the Mayan equivalent of gladiator, occurring only rarely and carrying enormous political, social and cultural significance, according to our guide, a true Yaxhá enthusiast. Like Tikal most of the site is still waiting to be excavated, structure after structure remaining buried under vast moss covered mounds, reclaimed by nature.

High above the jungle

Mayan football pitch!

Our guide, born and bred in the forest, took great delight in leading our small group, 5 nationals on holiday, an American couple and me, through the lush green forests, pointing out everything; birds, falcons and a rare sighting of the green questal, huge hairy tarantulas (I didn't post those pictures, on account of those who hate spiders!), snakes, spider monkeys and the roaring , echoing howler variety, the medicinal and nutritional native trees and plants, and , obviously , the temples.

In the middle of nowhere

The ' is that a monkey behind me' face

Apparently the US series of ‘Survivor’ was filmed here in Yaxhá, but according to our native guide the contestants were all wimps. He would have no trouble surviving here for weeks. I believed him! Few tourists come to Yaxhá, I was lucky to find a tour running, as it is a two hour run from Flores, the last 30 minutes on rough tracks, so slippery that at one point we all had to get out whilst our driver flayed the truck around in the mud before to everyone’s relief the wheels freed. Crocodiles roam freely here so it’s not a good idea to be stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Temples at Yaxha from opposite pyramid

Ancient Mayan tombs, built one above the other with each dynasty

The day was overcast, in sharp contrast to yesterday's blistering heat, but it made the three hour trek around and UP ( a lot of ‘ up’) the temples much easier. Omg these pyramids are incredibly high. We climbed as many as time allowed to drink in the views and atmospheric presence before tackling the sunset hike. This was Templo 216, towering above the world. Despite our quivering legs and shaking limbs, we sat in awe as darkness fell. The sun stayed hidden but no matter, it was a magnificent sight, perched high above the treeline staring out as far as the eye can see.

The ' I m glad I made it up but its a long way down' face!

Yaxha lakes at ' sunset' 

The night drive back took us through village after village celebrating the first Friday of Lent. Processions of candlelit worshippers holding high statues of Jesus bearing the cross, isolated halls ablaze with light and colour decked out for mass, families walking the pitch black roads to these impromptu churches, shining their way with torches as our driver respectfully slowed around them.
The lights of Flores seem very bright tonight after today immersed in an ancient world. I feel as if I have returned from another dimension, I have been lost in another civilisation, a timeless empire held tightly within the encircling jungle and have emerged blinking into the light. My muscles hurt but my mind is full of wonder.
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